BLACK TIE
The Tuxedo
Few outfits are as striking as the Smoking or Tuxedo, which embodies sharp contrasts and precious materials.

Timeless
The ultra-classic version of the tuxedo consists of a single-breasted jacket with one button and peaked lapels, covered in tone-on-tone silk. It is cut from black fabric.

Wedding tuxedo
A tuxedo as wedding attire could not be more appropriate, as it is exclusively worn on festive occasions. It creates a stark contrast with the white dress, which is very elegant in photos.
Also known as a tuxedo in the United States, the dinner jacket is a men's formal evening suit. It was popularized in the late 19th century by members of the social elite and later by many celebrities and actors like Fred Astaire or Frank Sinatra, to name but a few. Over the years, the dinner jacket has become a staple of formal events such as weddings and gala receptions. It has also become an icon of classic and elegant men's fashion.


Crafting Your Tuxedo
Fabric choice
It's important to choose a rather smooth fabric if you want to follow classic rules; after all, a tuxedo is formal wear.
Black, dark navy, or off-white with silk satin or tone-on-tone grosgrain details are the most traditional color choices.
An all-black outfit is the most understated choice, while dark navy offers a visually softer look; it's a personal choice
and you should pick what you like best. A dark blue tuxedo can have contrasting blue or black lapels.
However, you can absolutely decide to contrast the trousers and jacket by opting for a cream or white jacket.
Especially in summer or tropical climates, a white tuxedo with black trousers can look magnificent.
Think of Humphrey Bogart's white dinner jacket in Casablanca.

What distinguishes a tuxedo are the contrasting lapels and details – in silk satin or grosgrain.
Opt for a silk or mohair blend if you want your tuxedo to reflect light better. On the other hand, if you don't like
"shiny" fabrics, choose a barathea fabric or a twill wool for a more matte look.
The last fabric option for a tuxedo is velvet, which is better suited for Black Tie events in autumn and winter.



The cut
The most classic cut is a straight jacket, with peaked lapels.
The straight jacket can also have a shawl collar, completely rounded or with a more or less curved shape, called "bellied" in English.
You also have the option of a double-breasted jacket, with peaked lapels or a shawl collar.
Wearing a tuxedo is therefore highly codified, and it is mainly the choice of cut – straight, double-breasted, lapel volumes, etc. – that will allow you to differentiate yourself.
The tuxedo is worn with high-waisted trousers, without pleats, without cuffs, and with a wide waist sash called a cummerbund. This sash helps to lengthen the silhouette
and provides a fluid transition between the shirt and the waistband. You can also choose to have a tuxedo vest to achieve a similar aesthetic.
The side of the trousers can be adorned with a silk stripe matching that of the lapels and other details.
The Tuxedo Shirt
Collar and cuffs
A tuxedo shirt should be relatively understated. Traditionally, the collar of your tuxedo shirt will be a wing collar, but if a wing collar seems too rigid for you, you can also choose a semi-spread collar, which will pair very well with a bow tie. The choice of cuffs for a tuxedo shirt is very limited; indeed, it is customary to wear French cuffs with cufflinks. We do not advise deviating from this rule; the opportunity to wear cufflinks is too rare not to seize it.
The breastplate
Opting for a bib front will definitely be more formal; choose an American (rounded) or English (rectangular) bib, pleated or piqued, to complement your finest tuxedo outfits. The bib will be made of white Marcella cotton or the fabric of your shirt, depending on the bib you choose. The tuxedo was invented with a sense of relaxation in mind, so a simple shirt, with or without a concealed placket, is entirely acceptable. However, if you wish to be traditional, you can also choose to wear studs; take advantage of it, as the tuxedo is probably the only outfit that allows you to wear them.
Our bespoke shirts
We offer custom-made shirts with a wide range of personalization options. With a large selection of fabrics, collars, cuffs, and bibs, you have the opportunity to create a more or less classic tuxedo shirt. Our offer starts at €250, and the price of the shirt varies depending on the chosen fabric.

Smoking accessories
The Bowtie
Tuxedo accessories are relatively numerous compared to more classic attire. You will have no choice but to wear a black bow tie, but you will have a wide range of shapes and sizes to choose from. The fabric of your bow tie should match the fabric of your lapels; if you want to follow the rules precisely, it will be satin if you choose satin or grosgrain/ottoman lapels. We offer black bow ties in silk and grosgrain finishes. We also offer custom bow ties on which you can choose to have your initials, a date, or whatever you wish inscribed.
The Cummerbund
The smoking belt or in english Cummerbund, is a wide and pleated silk belt made to emulate a high waistline. It fastens with a clip in the back and sits on top of your trousers. Made from the same cloth as your bowtie and possibly the silk details of your smoking outfit.
The Cufflinks and studs
If you have a beautiful par of cufflinks, this is the occasion to wear them. If you choose to wear a shirt requiting studs, these should ideally match the cufflinks. We offer a beautiful selection of Samuel Gassmann cufflinks and studs, made from mother of pearl and brass in his Paris atelier.
The pocketsquare
To match your white shirt, opt for a white pocket square.
We offer a selection of white silk and cotton pocket squares.
Shoes
A tuxedo is generally worn with shiny black shoes and black socks. Opt for a pair of patent leather loafers with a grosgrain or satin bow (or opera pumps) or a very simple pair of black patent leather Oxfords. Opera pumps are the most traditional choice and should be worn if you want to wear the tuxedo in the most formal way possible. If you don't want to wear this type of shoe, you can, as mentioned earlier, wear a pair of black patent leather Oxfords or a pair of black patent leather loafers. In any case, wear a black pair that is as simple as possible.
Editorial
The world of the tuxedo

Ardentes Clipei MTO Tuxedo
The most classic and timeless cut : single breasted Jacket with generous silk satin lapels and details. Our smoking available in MTO can be realised in a reduced time frame and preferential price to MTM.













